Agent Review: Hotel du Vin in Edinburgh

Article by Jean Campbell. Photos: courtesy Hotel du Vin. 

When I was in Edinburgh in October, I stopped by to check out the Hotel Du Vin. I wasn't able to see any of the rooms in person (the hotel was full), but it was a really lovely hotel, and in a good interesting area of Edinburgh. They have a room where they can host private dinners and the wall paintings are themed around the Burke and Hare storyline, described by Wikipedia as follows:

The Burke and Hare murders were serial murders perpetrated in Edinburgh, Scotland, from November 1827 to October 31, 1828. The killings were attributed to Irish immigrants William Burke and William Hare, who sold the corpses of their 17 victims to provide material for dissection. Their purchaser was Doctor Robert Knox, a private anatomy lecturer whose students were drawn from Edinburgh Medical College. Their accomplices included Burke's mistress, Helen McDougal, and Hare's wife, Margaret Laird. From their infamous method of killing their victims has come the word "burking", meaning to purposefully smother and compress the chest of a victim, and a derived meaning, to quietly suppress. 

Given that the hotel is located in Edinburgh's Old Town and within a former asylum, it is the perfect backdrop!

Mountain Gorillas in Rwanda

article and photos by Jean Campbell

For those of you who are thinking about going to see the gorillas in Rwanda, this could be the nudge you need. The Rwanda Development Board has published a statement confirming the proposed rise in Rwanda gorilla permit prices to US$750 per permit.

Permits will increase to $750 per person per day starting June 1, 2012 unless they are booked and paid for by May, in which case permits will still be charged at $500 per person per day for the rest of 2012. Starting January 2013, all permits for tracking will be charged at $750 regardless of when they are booked or paid for.

On Safari - Making the little things count

by Jean Campbell

When we were young, my grandfather and my older brother bridged the gap of generations, and found a common interest in bird watching.  At the time I didn't have the maturity or the peace of mind to appreciate this hobby or understand what the appeal was.   It was only years later, while sitting in a vehicle in the wilderness of Africa, that I came to comprehend what a wonderful world was out there in clear sight once I was able to see beyond the obvious.  

I admit I first had to get over the excitement and anticipation created when looking for, and then finding the big game; still a wonderful awe inspiring experience every time. Once I realized, however, that every moment on safari does not have to be spent on a wave of adrenalin, I turned my attention to the smaller things in life as pointed out by the guides.   Watching the birds and  butterflies; learning about the plants; understanding connections between the animal world and the plant kingdom, and other such subjects became the focus. With that came a true learning experience right there in the classroom of the outdoors; the guides being our teachers.  What better opportunity is there!  This trip was no exception, and again we were impressed by the many facets nature has to offer, and again she did not fail to deliver.

Whistling Thorn and Cocktail Ants.

In what other setting would we learn about the whistling thorn (an acacia tree) so called because in addition to the long thorns the acacia is known for there are also, what are called stipular spines, and at the base of each of these stipular spines is a 1 inch swelling.  These swellings are home to four different kinds of ants who pierce the swellings, creating holes.  When the wind blows through the holes serve as a flute, and produce a whistling sound.  

Butterflies (Papilio demodocus)

I read somewhere there are 1370 species in Tanzania. These are just the common variety but they are still so beautiful to look at.   I didn't know, in spite of the very dramatic markings often found on butterfly wings, the wings are actually transparent.  

Yellow fever tree

Early explorers or pioneers were under the false impression that the yellow fever tree actually caused fever.  The issue was not the trees themselves but the swampy area in which the trees grow that was the problem.  The swampy environment that the trees thrive in is also an ideal breeding ground for mosquitoes, which of course, carry malaria.  The tree however got the blame first, and the name stuck.  

White Backed Vulture. 

Despite the perception that the vulture is a scavenger, and therefore can be perceived as nasty and dirty they are actually among the cleanest birds; often bathing and preening carefully after eating. 

Kori Bustard – The Kori Bustard is one of the largest flying birds, though it doesn't do it very much flying. The male Kori Bustard averages about 3½ feet in length, stands 2-3 feet, tall and has a wingspan about 7½ - 9 feet.  That’s a big bird!

Whistling Thorn and cocktail ants – Ol Donyo Lodge

Butterflies – Lake Manyara Tree Lodge and Gibbs Farm

Yellow Fever Tree – Ngorongoro Crater Lodge

Kori Bustard Grumeti River Lodge

White Backed Vulture – Klein’s Camp

Up Up and Away - ballooning over the Serengeti

by Jean Campbell

The day of our balloon safari started very early from the wonderful &Beyond Under Canvas camp, and due to a last minute (weather/wind related) change of venue it took us an hour or so to get to the “lift off” point, but it was an entertaining drive nonetheless. After the balloon ride it was about a 45 minute drive through the Serengeti to get to the breakfast spot (no stopping and loitering on this drive).  Upon arrival we were greeted by a hand washing attendant, as well as “facility” with a view.  Breakfast was a yummy and enjoyable occasion, followed by the opportunity to visit the “gift shop” before heading back to camp.

From our horizontal boarding to our smooth upright landing we were able to enjoy sunrise, zebra, cheetah, wildebeest, hyena, bat eared fox, and the never ending plains of the Serengeti; all from an altitude ranging from 1600 feet, down to 1 foot (my perspective wasn’t off) with our pilot Frank narrating along the way.

Loosely translated, the history of ballooning, as told to us, takes shape in 1783 in France.  The idea of the balloon came about when two brothers Joseph-Michel and Jacques-Etienne Montgolfier (paper manufacturers) watched ash rising when paper burned.  In September of that year a scientist, Pilatre de Rozier, launched a balloon carrying a sheep, a duck and a rooster; the idea was to record the reactions of each when flying at altitude.  The balloon stayed up for about 15 minutes before crash landing; we were told all of the “passengers” lived.  This made way for the first human flight two months later.  The honor of flying it was initially going to be imposed on convicted prisoners however the thought was if it was successful then they would be heroes.  Instead Pilatre de Rozier and Marquis Francois d’Arlandes petitioned for the role and piloted the flight, which was successful (staying up for about 20 minutes) before coming down in a farmer’s field.

These balloons were very crudely designed at the time; there was an fire built on a grill attached to the bottom of the balloon making the balloons very susceptible to catching fire.  Of less concern, but as it turned out almost as dangerous, was the fact that anyone in the balloon got completely covered in soot from the fire.  Upon landing the inhabitants of this first balloon (completely blackened by the soot) were mistaken for demons, and almost killed by the farmer whose field they landed in.  Consequently on future flights the pilots were given a bottle of Champagne.  The idea being; when they landed (blackened) they would be able to present the farmer with the Champagne, thereby proving that no matter how they looked, they were in fact bonified Frenchmen and not demons.  So was born the idea of the champagne breakfast served to us at the end of our wonderful balloon safari over the Serengeti. 

(Note: This type of balloon was called the Montgolfiere balloon after the two brothers.  Later the hydrogen balloon was introduced; and following that, in the 60’s, the army created the style known today.  As I mentioned, this is the loose translation of the first manned balloon flight, any inaccuracies can be completed blamed on the champagne served at breakfast.)

Kitchen Magicians &Beyond

Dinner menu at Bateleur Camp

by Jean Campbell

Many of the famous chefs have their own TV shows and named restaurants; they are innovative, their kitchens win acclaim the world over, and I am sure the food served from them is delicious. Think of it though; they have state of the art kitchens, many people working under them, and access to the finest ingredients in the world almost without limit. Granted, the pressure is high, but honestly, they don’t have to face the challenges faced and met by some of the unsung heroes in the catering world.

For example, when’s the last time Gordon Ramsey came to work expecting to cater to a full house only to find his complete storehouse (containing all the food for the week) has been trampled and destroyed by a panicked “dazzle” of zebra trying to escape from a lion attack? I am guessing that he’s never had to work around that! (Yes indeed it is a “dazzle” of zebra, and I know that because I bought the T-shirt.) 

Breakfast at Grumeti

Has Wolfgang Puck ever had to have eyes in the back of his head so that he can outsmart the blue monkeys (or any of the monkeys) who can steal fruit quicker than you can imagine from the nicely placed breakfast table. I think not!

Mr. “Bam” himself, Emeril Lagasse may be a favorite from the Food Network, but likely he has not had to think up a way to hyena-proof his fridge when the hyena can easily chew the entire door off it!

A table set up for a bush dinner

These are just three of the challenges (and there are so many I can’t even imagine) conquered as part of the job description at the recently visited &Beyond camps; as well as at the many other safari camps out there. Staff running these kitchens somehow manage to consistently turn out delicious, fresh and appealing food day in and day out in spite of these inconveniences; in many cases they do so out of the simplest, eco-friendly and most meager kitchen facilities. And even more surprisingly they do so with a smile whether you see them at 10pm or at 4:30am!

Just to take you there for a minute; I am not a doughnut person; in fact I never eat them. There is something entirely different however when the doughnut is made and cooked in front of you; served up at an outdoor breakfast venue positioned to enjoy an unobstructed view of Africa waking up. Now that’s a doughnut I would eat any day! Oh yes, and these doughnuts were delightfully void of the ugly aftertaste experienced when eating any of the retail offerings I’ve had.

The chefs at Bateleur Camp

Then there was the soup! Our trip could have actually been referred to as the Soup Tour. Every day we had soup that was truly the “best soup ever”! Served with freshly made delicious bread, the soup was magnificent; it became rather exciting to see what could possibly be next and just when we thought that had to be “it," “it” was trumped again the next day by something just as wonderful. As a little teaser; imagine the best tomato soup ever (seriously) made with no tomatoes at all; only tomato paste, and peanut butter and more! Or Tomato and Tamarind Soup made with lots of tomatoes as well as 15 other ingredients!

Hhhmmm good is really all I can say. Well I could go on and on about this, and really I could give you the recipes, but you know how the saying goes; if I tell you, I’d have to. . .

My only advice is to buy the cookbook (A Kitchen Safari: Stories & Recipes From The African Wilderness) or a MUCH better idea; go the camps and experience it all for yourself.

I applaud the cooks and staff members at all the camps we visited, they produced quality dishes every day and served it with such a grace, it was wonderful. The big names in the culinary world may get all the fame and fortune, but in my mind it is the staff in the kitchens such as these; the simple kitchens everywhere, quietly working behind the scenes creating and serving up food made from the most humble beginnings, that are the true kitchen heroes. I hope they see the wonder of what they do, and I hope they get the recognition they deserve; what they do can only be described as magic!

(andBeyond camps visited: Kichwa Tembo/Bateleur Camp, Klein’s, Under Canvas, Grumeti, Lake Manyara, Ngorongoro Crater Lodge)

Ol Donyo Wuas, Kenya – Great Plains Conservation

By Jean Campbell

Slicing through the warm wind, my horse galloped across the same plains claimed by Hemingway as well as others who walked there before him.  There was no particular destination; just the ability to run free, that was the only prize I sought.  Alone with nature; I was unafraid and unfettered by the constraints of daily life, the experience was exhilarating and exciting…..

Okay, so let’s be honest, it didn’t happen quite like that!  There were eight of us, we had all been given careful instruction before we started, our horses were walking in a lose formation together, there was no wind, and we did have a destination in mind, it was a lovely bush breakfast….but still it was exhilarating and exciting. 

We were enjoying two wonderful nights at Ol Donyo Wuas, located in the heart of the 275,000 acre Mbirikani Group Ranch, on the slopes of the Chyulu Hills National Park between the Amboseli and Tsavo West National Parks in southeast Kenya.  One of the activities offered there is this horse riding excursion.  To the experienced “horse” person, our experience might be seen as lame, but for the rest of us it was wonderful to be out in the brush, the game glancing at us with only minimal interest.  Being in the company of the giraffe as they munched on the acacia thorn was exciting and exhilarating, how could it not be?  Just watching these magnificent undulates “do their thing” is like looking into another world where the animals are just too magnificent to have been imagined.  Their beautiful faces are so special, and to be right there watching them eat undisturbed was such a peaceful and special experience.

For those who are experienced riders, they could experience something closer to my opening paragraph.  Ride Kenya operates superb 5 and 7 night horse safaris from the lodge (and longer trips can be customized).  I can completely see the appeal of taking such a trip (I would have to brush up on my equestrian skills for a few years first); it really would be a glorious feeling to be an experienced rider enjoying the wonders of a safari of this type.   The horses were in great shape, and the Ride Kenya staff were experienced and conscientious and a pleasure to be around.

We returned to the lodge later, and enjoyed the beautiful facilities of our rooms and the camp, as well as the lovely staff and management; again they were a pleasure to be around, and really that's what made the stay at any lodge so enjoyable.  This lodge is a beautiful respite to be enjoyed best at the beginning or end of an itinerary when game viewing may not be primary goal, but instead other activities can be enjoyed as well as some game viewing.  In addition to horseback riding we had a great afternoon of biking (the bikes have been well used, so this is not your state of the art bikes that some may be used to), and another spent hiking (the heat wore me down on that one).  At the end of each day we ended the activity with beautiful views as we toasted the sunsets with our “sundowners”.  I cannot close without mentioning the “star beds”.  What better way to end a day than to be blanketed by a breathtaking sky full of stars just before you close your eyes! 

Klein’s Camp, Serengeti, Tanzania – &Beyond

a mother hyena gently carries her cub to a new location

by Jean Campbell 

We woke up to the wonderful sounds of a hyena “drama” in full swing; it went on for a number of minutes escalating in excitement to (what seemed to be) hysterical proportions before calming down to the more subdued “chatter” of the now familiar hoots and whoops.  What a glorious and absolutely insane sound to wake up to; such was our morning wake up call during a recent stay at Klein’s Camp, the wonderful &Beyond property located in the Serengeti (Tanzania), on the edge of the Kuka Hills.

The elevated location of the camp allowed us an undisturbed view of valley floor below, and we watched these superb creatures (viewed as superbly ugly by many) run riot as they tried to regain order in their world.  The guide later told us that there had been a lion kill (zebra?), and two hyena packs had converged to steal the kill only to end up squabbling over which pack would ultimately take the prize. One pack consisted of about 19 hyenas, the other around 16, so there was a lot of very heated “discussion” going on among them all as hierarchy was established. 

In total it is thought that the hyena produces about 14 different sounds depending upon the situation.  The most identifiable of these must be the “whoop” and the “laugh” that we experienced that morning.  The “whoop” sound starts low, and modulates up and down in pitch; amazingly, it seems, each hyena has their own unique version of this sound.  It is used to communicate and identify when visual contact is not possible; it is also used when an animal approaches a new clan in order to announce their presence, and prepare for possible rejection.  We also enjoyed some great versions of the “hoot laugh” (much to my joy); hence the name “laughing” hyena.  Apparently this sound is produced at a time of uncertainty when the animal is conflicted between approaching or departing from a situation (“should I stay or should I go”).  This can also be the sound made by a submissive animal as it waits their turn at a kill, as well as when this lower ranking member is chased from the kill by a superior ranking animal.  In addition there are apparently higher or lower pitch versions of this sound that will change the meaning.

The hyena may not appeal to everyone, and certainly it could be argued that they have a face only a mother could love, but I do love to see and especially hear these animals.   These are the moments that touch my soul; these are the moments of relative simplicity that illuminate to me the beauty, and the complexity of nature, and for just a moment it is a glimpse directly into the wild and something very pure and raw; something very special.  What an absolute privilege!

Agent review: India trip with A&K

article and photos by Jean Campbell 

I recently had the pleasure of going to India, and found it to be a very interesting and welcoming destination. There are so many dimensions to the country that it’s hard to imagine how it is possible for it to operate as one entity.  Somehow it does, and it's growing and moving into the 21st century at an amazing rate. India is not a destination for everyone, but for those who are open to it they will find a country full of contrasts and contradiction, history, religion and spirituality, people, food, and they will find a country in transition. Because of the massive population, the number of people who are considered some of the poorest in the world is staggering. Yet even as millions of Indians live on $1.00 a day, on the Forbes “richest Indians” list released recently, the net worth of the 100 richest Indians was $300 billion. Such is the nature of India – a country of extremes.

We followed what is considered the typical tourist circuit for the first-time visitor; Delhi, Jodhpur, Udaipur, Jaipur, Agra, and then on to Varanasi. This is not a comprehensive view of India by any stretch of the imagination; the sheer enormity of the country means that the Indians themselves feel like they are traveling to another country when they travel to other areas. 

In each area we visited the most magnificent hotels, and packed in as much sightseeing as we could in our time there. We heard explanations of caste systems, maharajas, and religious faiths; saw beautiful temples, palaces, forts, and museums; experienced tuk-tuk rides, walks through the packed markets, an elephant ride; glorious colours, smells and sounds (horn blowing is the communication of the road); and food, food, food. We witnessed ceremonies and cremations along the Ganges River; craftsmen creating their wares; and “traffic” like I have never encountered before. Let me define the word “traffic”, it means….cars, trucks, people, dogs, cows, tuk-tuks, bicycles, camels, goats, pigs, buffalo and the odd elephant….(I’m sure I must have forgotten something). Sometimes it felt like everything and everyone was going in every direction, all traveling in the same lane.

Having said that, we always got to our destination safely, and so it seemed did everyone around us (for the most part), which was unbelievable when there seemed to be no regard to any traffic laws, and yet everyone and everything weaved their way through the tightest spaces expertly. Organized chaos at its best, and my utmost respect went out to our bus driver; he was the master of the road, and there was never a need for fear with him at the wheel. 

Speaking of respect, our guide was absolutely wonderful:  funny, informative, educated, compassionate, imaginative etc., etc. The trip was made so very special because of his commitment to his art, along with each of the local guides we met along the way. Our guide in Varanasi was a particularly animated character, and as a result he was a great teacher, and very entertaining at the same time. Varanasi is not for everyone, but for me it was a wonderful addition to our trip, and I would strongly recommend anyone to include a visit to this unique city.

With generations of marahajas, moghuls, spiritual leaders-- not to mention millions of the gods and temples--  it was hard to keep the layers of the country straight, but I found India to be fascinating and intriguing, and hope to continue to learn much more about it in the future. It was a fabulous trip and one I am very grateful to have made.