Outdoor Adventures: family safari with Singita

Photo: Singita

Got a case of cabin fever? It happens to all of us this time of year-- whether it's the change of seasons, or just the long stretch between holidays. Travel can be a good way to get a good dose of the great outdoors, especially if you go somewhere where nature still reigns as it has for millions of years.

Singita Game Reserves shared the photo above as a prime example of  what you might see on a family safari at Singita Sweni lodge, perched above the Sweni River in the Kruger National Park. Read more about this amazing experience on their blog.

Whale watching on safari

You go on safari to see the Big Five: the lions, the African elephants, the cape buffalo, the leopards, and the rhinoceroses. Then there are the birds, the giraffes, the zebras, the warthogs, the wildebeest, and all the other birds and beasts that teem across the plains. But what's bigger than the big five? What dwarfs even elephants? 

Photo source: Encyclopedia Brittanica Advocate for Animals

Whales, of course: the sometimes-forgotten giant of the deep. Now, you can quite feasibly see all of these magnificent creatures on a single journey. & Beyond Phinda Private Game Reserve is perfectly situated to offer wildlife viewing on both land and water. Now, in addition to morning and afternoon game drives and a plethora of other adventures, guests to the reserve can also enjoy two to five-hour, boat-based whale viewing expeditions at nearby Sodwana Bay in South Africa.

Travelers to this part of the world might spot acrobatic humpback whales or graceful Bryde's whales as they breach above the surface of the water. Viewing is best from June to October, as these gentle sea giants bask in the warm Indian Ocean waters as part of their migration.

We love that &Beyond has added this incredible experience to their portfolio of activities. This would be a great way for people who have already been on safari to add a new dimension to their next African adventure.

Caught in the act!

Animal lovers everywhere will recognize the mischievous glint in the eyes of this lioness as she decides that this video camera, set up by Tswalu photographers to capture footage of the Kalahari wildlife, now belongs to her. What big teeth! Here's how it went down: 

Photographer Roger de la Harpe, of Africa Imagery, has been shooting at Tswalu Kalahari for his book about African lions. He wanted to get some close up shots with a small digital video camera so placed it where he knew a pride of lions would soon be passing. As expected the lions came into view. Unexpectedly, and to the horror of Roger who was watching from a distance, one of the lionesses showed an unhealthy interest in the camera. She licked it, gave it a good sniff and then picked it up in her mouth and ran off with it (Via Tswalu Kalahari Blog)

Incidentally, Tswalu, a private game reserve in South Africa, happens to be one of our favorite places to recommend to those looking for an amazing safari experience. It's home to the Malori Sleep Out Deck, known as "the best bed in Africa" and a luxurious outdoor loo with an incredible view. Perhaps as you shower under the stars you'll catch a glimpse of this camera-toting lioness!

On Safari - Making the little things count

by Jean Campbell

When we were young, my grandfather and my older brother bridged the gap of generations, and found a common interest in bird watching.  At the time I didn't have the maturity or the peace of mind to appreciate this hobby or understand what the appeal was.   It was only years later, while sitting in a vehicle in the wilderness of Africa, that I came to comprehend what a wonderful world was out there in clear sight once I was able to see beyond the obvious.  

I admit I first had to get over the excitement and anticipation created when looking for, and then finding the big game; still a wonderful awe inspiring experience every time. Once I realized, however, that every moment on safari does not have to be spent on a wave of adrenalin, I turned my attention to the smaller things in life as pointed out by the guides.   Watching the birds and  butterflies; learning about the plants; understanding connections between the animal world and the plant kingdom, and other such subjects became the focus. With that came a true learning experience right there in the classroom of the outdoors; the guides being our teachers.  What better opportunity is there!  This trip was no exception, and again we were impressed by the many facets nature has to offer, and again she did not fail to deliver.

Whistling Thorn and Cocktail Ants.

In what other setting would we learn about the whistling thorn (an acacia tree) so called because in addition to the long thorns the acacia is known for there are also, what are called stipular spines, and at the base of each of these stipular spines is a 1 inch swelling.  These swellings are home to four different kinds of ants who pierce the swellings, creating holes.  When the wind blows through the holes serve as a flute, and produce a whistling sound.  

Butterflies (Papilio demodocus)

I read somewhere there are 1370 species in Tanzania. These are just the common variety but they are still so beautiful to look at.   I didn't know, in spite of the very dramatic markings often found on butterfly wings, the wings are actually transparent.  

Yellow fever tree

Early explorers or pioneers were under the false impression that the yellow fever tree actually caused fever.  The issue was not the trees themselves but the swampy area in which the trees grow that was the problem.  The swampy environment that the trees thrive in is also an ideal breeding ground for mosquitoes, which of course, carry malaria.  The tree however got the blame first, and the name stuck.  

White Backed Vulture. 

Despite the perception that the vulture is a scavenger, and therefore can be perceived as nasty and dirty they are actually among the cleanest birds; often bathing and preening carefully after eating. 

Kori Bustard – The Kori Bustard is one of the largest flying birds, though it doesn't do it very much flying. The male Kori Bustard averages about 3½ feet in length, stands 2-3 feet, tall and has a wingspan about 7½ - 9 feet.  That’s a big bird!

Whistling Thorn and cocktail ants – Ol Donyo Lodge

Butterflies – Lake Manyara Tree Lodge and Gibbs Farm

Yellow Fever Tree – Ngorongoro Crater Lodge

Kori Bustard Grumeti River Lodge

White Backed Vulture – Klein’s Camp

Up Up and Away - ballooning over the Serengeti

by Jean Campbell

The day of our balloon safari started very early from the wonderful &Beyond Under Canvas camp, and due to a last minute (weather/wind related) change of venue it took us an hour or so to get to the “lift off” point, but it was an entertaining drive nonetheless. After the balloon ride it was about a 45 minute drive through the Serengeti to get to the breakfast spot (no stopping and loitering on this drive).  Upon arrival we were greeted by a hand washing attendant, as well as “facility” with a view.  Breakfast was a yummy and enjoyable occasion, followed by the opportunity to visit the “gift shop” before heading back to camp.

From our horizontal boarding to our smooth upright landing we were able to enjoy sunrise, zebra, cheetah, wildebeest, hyena, bat eared fox, and the never ending plains of the Serengeti; all from an altitude ranging from 1600 feet, down to 1 foot (my perspective wasn’t off) with our pilot Frank narrating along the way.

Loosely translated, the history of ballooning, as told to us, takes shape in 1783 in France.  The idea of the balloon came about when two brothers Joseph-Michel and Jacques-Etienne Montgolfier (paper manufacturers) watched ash rising when paper burned.  In September of that year a scientist, Pilatre de Rozier, launched a balloon carrying a sheep, a duck and a rooster; the idea was to record the reactions of each when flying at altitude.  The balloon stayed up for about 15 minutes before crash landing; we were told all of the “passengers” lived.  This made way for the first human flight two months later.  The honor of flying it was initially going to be imposed on convicted prisoners however the thought was if it was successful then they would be heroes.  Instead Pilatre de Rozier and Marquis Francois d’Arlandes petitioned for the role and piloted the flight, which was successful (staying up for about 20 minutes) before coming down in a farmer’s field.

These balloons were very crudely designed at the time; there was an fire built on a grill attached to the bottom of the balloon making the balloons very susceptible to catching fire.  Of less concern, but as it turned out almost as dangerous, was the fact that anyone in the balloon got completely covered in soot from the fire.  Upon landing the inhabitants of this first balloon (completely blackened by the soot) were mistaken for demons, and almost killed by the farmer whose field they landed in.  Consequently on future flights the pilots were given a bottle of Champagne.  The idea being; when they landed (blackened) they would be able to present the farmer with the Champagne, thereby proving that no matter how they looked, they were in fact bonified Frenchmen and not demons.  So was born the idea of the champagne breakfast served to us at the end of our wonderful balloon safari over the Serengeti. 

(Note: This type of balloon was called the Montgolfiere balloon after the two brothers.  Later the hydrogen balloon was introduced; and following that, in the 60’s, the army created the style known today.  As I mentioned, this is the loose translation of the first manned balloon flight, any inaccuracies can be completed blamed on the champagne served at breakfast.)

Kitchen Magicians &Beyond

Dinner menu at Bateleur Camp

by Jean Campbell

Many of the famous chefs have their own TV shows and named restaurants; they are innovative, their kitchens win acclaim the world over, and I am sure the food served from them is delicious. Think of it though; they have state of the art kitchens, many people working under them, and access to the finest ingredients in the world almost without limit. Granted, the pressure is high, but honestly, they don’t have to face the challenges faced and met by some of the unsung heroes in the catering world.

For example, when’s the last time Gordon Ramsey came to work expecting to cater to a full house only to find his complete storehouse (containing all the food for the week) has been trampled and destroyed by a panicked “dazzle” of zebra trying to escape from a lion attack? I am guessing that he’s never had to work around that! (Yes indeed it is a “dazzle” of zebra, and I know that because I bought the T-shirt.) 

Breakfast at Grumeti

Has Wolfgang Puck ever had to have eyes in the back of his head so that he can outsmart the blue monkeys (or any of the monkeys) who can steal fruit quicker than you can imagine from the nicely placed breakfast table. I think not!

Mr. “Bam” himself, Emeril Lagasse may be a favorite from the Food Network, but likely he has not had to think up a way to hyena-proof his fridge when the hyena can easily chew the entire door off it!

A table set up for a bush dinner

These are just three of the challenges (and there are so many I can’t even imagine) conquered as part of the job description at the recently visited &Beyond camps; as well as at the many other safari camps out there. Staff running these kitchens somehow manage to consistently turn out delicious, fresh and appealing food day in and day out in spite of these inconveniences; in many cases they do so out of the simplest, eco-friendly and most meager kitchen facilities. And even more surprisingly they do so with a smile whether you see them at 10pm or at 4:30am!

Just to take you there for a minute; I am not a doughnut person; in fact I never eat them. There is something entirely different however when the doughnut is made and cooked in front of you; served up at an outdoor breakfast venue positioned to enjoy an unobstructed view of Africa waking up. Now that’s a doughnut I would eat any day! Oh yes, and these doughnuts were delightfully void of the ugly aftertaste experienced when eating any of the retail offerings I’ve had.

The chefs at Bateleur Camp

Then there was the soup! Our trip could have actually been referred to as the Soup Tour. Every day we had soup that was truly the “best soup ever”! Served with freshly made delicious bread, the soup was magnificent; it became rather exciting to see what could possibly be next and just when we thought that had to be “it," “it” was trumped again the next day by something just as wonderful. As a little teaser; imagine the best tomato soup ever (seriously) made with no tomatoes at all; only tomato paste, and peanut butter and more! Or Tomato and Tamarind Soup made with lots of tomatoes as well as 15 other ingredients!

Hhhmmm good is really all I can say. Well I could go on and on about this, and really I could give you the recipes, but you know how the saying goes; if I tell you, I’d have to. . .

My only advice is to buy the cookbook (A Kitchen Safari: Stories & Recipes From The African Wilderness) or a MUCH better idea; go the camps and experience it all for yourself.

I applaud the cooks and staff members at all the camps we visited, they produced quality dishes every day and served it with such a grace, it was wonderful. The big names in the culinary world may get all the fame and fortune, but in my mind it is the staff in the kitchens such as these; the simple kitchens everywhere, quietly working behind the scenes creating and serving up food made from the most humble beginnings, that are the true kitchen heroes. I hope they see the wonder of what they do, and I hope they get the recognition they deserve; what they do can only be described as magic!

(andBeyond camps visited: Kichwa Tembo/Bateleur Camp, Klein’s, Under Canvas, Grumeti, Lake Manyara, Ngorongoro Crater Lodge)